Here they are, the three 84 Watt peltiers that I
currently use. I got them from www.tedist.com, and
they are potted. Potted is the only way to buy
peltiers.  If you don't get a potted peltier, you are
really asking for trouble.

Here are side, front, and top views of the insulated box. All sides shown here are 1/4" foam.  The gray lines indicate sides of the foam that are obstructed from view. The piece of foam with the holes in it is not attached to the main enclosure, instead it is "stuck" to the water jacket with Vaseline, and then is slid down into the box, and again greased with Vaseline to ensure a good air tight seal against the box. The little lip protruding down actually slides over the slot 1 interface so that no air can come into contact with the colder slot.  Again, Vaseline is used to seal out the air.  Notice the slit in the top view.  This is where the CPU's edge connector stick out of the box and into the slot.  Also, in reality there are 2 holes in the bottom of the box which allow the bolts from the plastic "bridges" to pass through. Washers are backed against both sides of the foam and smashed together with nuts... of course, Vaseline is again used to seal out the air.

I hope you can make at least a little sense of this picture. Some of the things shown here are NOT  implemented in the actual photos below (they are a  little outdated... ), however the basic idea is simple.  These diagrams show the lid of the insulated enclosure. It is designed to fit snugly over the top of  the insulated box.  The differences in the diagrams  and the actual photos is that the diagrams (and current version I am using) also have a layer of foam  around the sides of the top so that it makes better contact with the box, therefor greatly diminishing the risk of condensation (I found that I needed this extra  layer the hard way, unfortunately.. toasted a vid card and almost got my network and SCSI card :/).  The yellow is a piece of 1/4" Plexiglas I added to the top piece of foam to give support when I hook up the wires to the terminals (they are "push operated", so I  have to press fairly hard and without the Plexiglas,  this would destroy the foam). Again, all of the  surfaces here are coated in Vaseline to maintain a  good air tight seal with the insulated box.

  These are the "bridges" that allow me to mount this 4
  pound water jacket and all of the other weight, etc.,
  that comes with such a large cooling solution. You
  can see the placement of the "bridges" on the two
  holes to the right of the slot 1 mounting holes (this is
  not my motherboard, BTW).  Unfortunately, this
  method of using a foam box (atleast in my design),
  partially covers up the heatsink of the chipset and it's
  temp rises slightly.
  In the first picture, you can see that the third diagram
  shows the bridges mounted to the motherboard.  This
  is accomplished by using a #8-32 tap on the holes
  that are used to mount to the motherboard. Nylon
  bolts are then used to screw from the bottom side of
  the board into the plastic bridges.

Here it is. The almighty Vaseline. You can see it here next to the lid (which is at this point coated with Vaseline, as you can barely make out the clumps of the slippery stuff on the sides of the lid).  In addition to coating most of the insulation surfaces to achieve an air tight fit, I stuffed as much of this stuff in the slot 1 as I could fit. This displaced the air inside the slot so there would be no condensation on the pins of my Celeron 400. This is O.K. because Vaseline is non conductive (both thermally and electrically), and is non corrosive. I've seen people now use dielectric grease, but I've known people to use Vaseline for this purpose long before.

Lets Wrap this up