Login to ProCooling
Name: Pass:
Not Logged In.
Search:
ProCooling Technical Discussions
Overland Storage SnapOS v4 & Image File Links
kiwa 557 Day(s) ago.
/sadmin/debug.cgi
ozmatt 954 Day(s) ago.
Getting back into the water
ben333 1133 Day(s) ago.
ID This Waterblock.
jaydee 1616 Day(s) ago.
ProCooling Geek Bits
Happy 20 year on Procooling!
satanicoo 497 Day(s) ago.
Fluke 17B+ ... the multimeter I've always wanted b...
Noise 1923 Day(s) ago.
Ben's Win 98 box, redone! Build up
ben333 3578 Day(s) ago.
Project Black & Blue - Ben's new HTPC
ben333 3638 Day(s) ago.
Site News and Blogs
User Registrations kinda back open
Jag 1031 Day(s) ago.
New User Registrations are blocked
ben333 1154 Day(s) ago.
Where is Joe these days? JoeKelly.co
ben333 1444 Day(s) ago.
Stuff over the last few years, Blogs, etc...
rhkcommander 1828 Day(s) ago.
The Pro/Market
GTX 280 for US $308.11 !!!!!!
sam amaar 2301 Day(s) ago.
FS: Laptop hardware (CPUs, Memory, HDDs, Wifi, etc...
ben333 4439 Day(s) ago.
FS external watercooling units from jpiperformance...
Halo_Master 4478 Day(s) ago.
FS Snap Server 4200
abuthemagician 4603 Day(s) ago.
Pro/Mini Pro/Mini - The Uber LAN Box
Date Posted: Feb 2 2001
Author: Joe
Posting Type: Article
Category: ProCooling Projects
Page: 2 of 10
Article Rank:No Rank Yet
Must Log In to Rank This Article
Note: This is a legacy article, imported from old code. Due to this some items on the page may not function as expected. Links, Colors, and some images may not be set correctly.
Pro/Mini - The Uber LAN Box By: Joe

Pro/Mini - The Uber Lan Box - Day 2

DAY 2-

Fire!!!, and we cut more stuff :)

Since we just cut off the stock hose barbs off the radiator we need to replace em.  With what you ask?  well we are going to Mfg. some new ones, and this is where the fire comes into play.

First I took a 3/8" Hose Barb with a 1/8" NPT fitting. I cut it off like the pic shows.

I found that the hose barb fits PERFECT into a 1/4"piece of Cu pipe. So I fluxed the interface and then soldered away.  Just some advice when you solder pipe joints:

  • Don't use a lot of solder, a lil will do.
  • Get and keep the pipe interfaces hot the entire time you are soldering.
  • and DON'T FREAK'n Touch the metal right after.. its HOT.

In the end I had 2 of these. I cleaned this up a lot with the steel brush wheel on the dremel cause right after soldering it looks pretty grungy.  I tapped the holes in the radiator top with a 1/8" NPT tap.  I would HIGHLY suggest using cutting oil on the tap or the Aluminum on the radiator will try and grab the tap.

To finish it off I soldered on 2 1/4" NPT threaded ends on the 90Deg angles I made. I then threaded them onto the radiator and there you have it,  A finished radiator.  I sealed the interfaces with the brass and Al. with Plumbers Goop.

Now, Lets Duct this Hot Air.

The air is going to be pulled through the radiator and then it would end up in the case. Now heating your case is not something that people want. So I had another trip around Ace Hardware looking for goods to help duct the air.

I measured it up with the hole in the case and planned my cut that way. Yeh no to exact but it let me plot clearly where I wanted it. In relation to the rest of the gear in the case.

I found this dryer vent. I dunno why but out of all the others this one just rules. Its all Plastic for easy cutting, compact, and open.  It has a removable plastic grate on the square side and the inner part needs to be cut out. It cost about 4.50$ and its meant for a 4" dryer hose.

I mounted The 120mm high speed Panaflo Fan supplied by CaseEtc.com to the duct with Zip Ties and it is VERY secure. I then used Masking tape to plan out the rest of the duct work. I just used some spare corrugated cardboard for the extension of the duct.

I used the masking taped up duct to size and place the side case cuts.

Fire the Dremel Back up!

I found where the duct work meets the the door and with my arm in side drew that black line on the top of the cut, then I used one of the Al. Mesh 120mm filters for the opening to plot the holes. and then drilled em out.  It may look like rough cuts, but all the cuts I made were sanded with a 400grit Dremel wheel. The cuts are smoother and more free of burrs then the factory cuts on the case.

I got antsy so I also measured up and cut the opening for the Papst 120mm door fan that will be used to cool the innards of the machine. I used the same Octagon cuts for the fan placement and the openings. I am using the 120mm Aluminum mesh filters. I am securing them on the side door with Brass bolts to give it just a lil trick look.

Day - 3  Getting on with the plumbing

Random Forum Pic
Random Forum Pic
From Thread:
The next evolution to cathar's microchannel design
ProCooling Poll:
So why the hell not?
I agree! 67%
What? 17%
Hell NO! 0%
Worst Poll Ever. 17%
Total Votes:18
Please Login to Vote!



(C) ProCooling.com 2005 - All this glorious web geekness was brought to you by Joe's amateur web coding skills.
If we in some way offend you, insult you or your people, screw your mom, beat up your dad, or poop on your porch... we're sorry... we were probably really drunk...
Oh and dont steal our content bitches! Don't give us a reason to pee in your open car window this summer...